Walking the Battlefields

The Demjansk Pocket (1942)

2011-12-27T17:16:00.001Z

I covered the history of this pivotal WWII battle in an earlier entry (see link at the bottom of this narrative). So, I'm assuming that if you are reading this you have some familiarity with the monumental struggle that took place in and around Demjansk from Feb to April 1942.

German Cemetery - Korpova, Demjansk

Nowadays Demjansk is something of a back water. Located as it is, on the only piece of high ground in an area where the topography is one of swampy waterlogged forest crossed by the odd causeway - now metalled roads, in 1941/2 mainly tracks constructed out of lumber by military engineers. We travelled through what in 1942 was known as the Rumeshevo corridor hitting the high ground at Tsemenia which is 20 km North of Demjansk town. It is on this road that one can find the newly built Korpova German cemetery along with a much smaller original battlefield cemetery containing a handful of early casualties.

Memorial to the 1st Shock Army - Tsemena, Demjansk

We stayed at the only hotel in town - called, rather unimaginatively, 'the hotel'. I managed to secure the penthouse suite - a glorious cacophony of kitch furnishings and faulty utilities. Meals were available - one choice no matter whether breakfast, lunch or supper. There is no bar so myself and a couple of mates ventured into the only liquor store in town - the owner who had evidently only dealt with locals before was astonished.

Mural from Pupovo PoW Camp, Demjansk

Stepping out of the hotel one can cover some interesting sites in a couple of hours walking. Head South, turn right at the intersection and in a few minutes it is possible to see the vast memorial on the site of the Pupovo Boloto PoW camp. A depressing place where thousands of PoWs and local people were left to fend for themselves within a wire enclosed compound. The road North from this site leads past the town square with its' huge statue of Lenin to the town bridge where there is a small memorial in the form of an anti-tank gun.

The Hotel, Demjansk

The Bridge Memorial, Demjansk

Pre - war, two churches stood either side of the river. Both were destroyed during the conflict. Continuing East over the river leads out to the airfield and the Demjansk lake. In the winter, during the encirclement, the latter acted as a second runway. Around the airfield site the ground is pitted with fox holes and dugouts.

We'd arranged to spend time with some friends from Moscow - guys who have a fascination with the history of the area and a real interest in excavating the main battle areas. The purpose being primarily to locate and rebury the war dead but also to retrieve artifacts. We spent a day in the field - a day which saw the retrieval of c30 fallen Russian soldiers along with tons of equipment.

Recovered remains at Kamennaya Gora, Demjansk

Battlefield relics - Mikhaltzovo, Demjansk

We later attended the reburial of these and other soldiers at an officially constituted Russian military cemetery. A well attended event with a good mix of local civilians, Russian officialdom and 'diggers' from as far away as Siberia.

Whilst in Demjansk we undertook three serious battlefield walks. The first at Tsemena at the end of the Rumshevo Corridor, the second in the town itself and the third along the line held by the infamous SS Totenkopf Division on the escarpment to the East of Luzhno village. We parked in the centre of the village and walked along the edge of the escarpment. It was one of the best preserved sites I've visited on the Eastern Front. MG 42 gun positions, linking trenches and mortar pits in support. Live mortars lay all around along with other less dangerous vestiges of the conflict.

Our party arrives at Luzhno, Demjansk

MG 42 position - Luzhno, Demjansk

As with so many of our trips to Russia, it's the people we find the most fascinating. Not just the veterans but others - from all walks of life. Whilst in Demjansk we spent an afternoon with the local media and two long articles about our visit were subsequently published.

The premier of 'Pilot Hero of the Soviet Union' - Demjansk

Also, we attended a film premier of the film 'Pilot Hero of the Soviet Union'. A story about the recent discovery of a Russian pilot following the excavation of a fighter plane in the Demjansk area. The pilot died over the Pocket in 1942 and was originally from the city of Stalingrad ... but that's another story.

Related links
Besieged - Cholm (1942)
The Volkhov Front (1942 - 44)
Pre Trip 'Taster' - Demjansk (1942)

Texan T6 and Focke Wulf FW 190 (Florida)

2011-12-26T14:40:00.001Z

You might think that a two week holiday in Orlando, Florida is an unlikely scenario for discovering military history. But, as with so many other holiday destinations, there are rich pickings to be found with a little bit of imagination. It just takes a little research to find something to see and then find a way of dovetailing the excursion into an itinerary designed for family pleasures. The family had discerned that we would be visiting the Epcot Centre in Orlando but probably hadn't anticipated that I would be flying over this attraction in a 1943 T-6 trainer whilst they waited in a hanger for me to return!

Epcot, Orlando from the Air

Actually, we all had a fabulous time visiting the sites around Orlando. My guilty secret though is that the highlights included flying the T-6 and taking the controls for two 'loop the loops' in the clear blue Floridian sky. The T-6 was used as a trainer in WWII and is probably the nearest I will get to flying a Spitfire. And it was a fantastic experience.

The Author at the controls of a North American T-6

The old Kissimmee airfield is home to a few other fabulous vintage aircraft. For example the Mustang P-51 shown below. It is possible to fly the Mustang but the price was a little rich for me.

Mustang P51 ready for take off at Kissimmee

In the main hanger there is a WWII Focke Wulf FW190 undergoing restoration. The example in question was recovered from Norway where it was shot down on the 9th Feb 1945. A local group of enthusiasts intend to get it flying again. The sourcing of parts is proving to be a challenge but the team are confident that they will complete the project.

This half day out was a thrill and made a superb family holiday in Orlando just that little bit more special.

Marston Moor (1644)

2011-11-05T18:07:00.000Z

As far as battlefield walking is concerned I take my opportunities when I can. One such opportunity arose last month during a weeks' holiday with my wife in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales. Mo's thoughts turned to shopping in Harrogate whilst mine turned to nearby Marston Moor, the place where the North of England was lost to the Royalist cause during the English Civil War. We managed to cover both but I'm guessing that my readership is going to be more interested in the latter than the former!

The battle was fought on the 2nd July 1644. Prince Rupert and the Earl of Newcastle had reinstated the kings' authority over the city of York the previous day. Both the Royalists and the opposing Parliamentarians gathered their forces at Marston Moor. The former force was outnumbered - the Royalist army consisting of 6,000 cavalry, 17,000 foot soldiers and 14 artillery pieces. The Parliamentarian force under the Earl of Leven, Lord Fairfax and the Earl of Manchester fielded a total of 22, 500 men, with material advantages across all arms.

The Monument at Marston Moor

The monument in the picture is situated in the middle of the battlefield. The Royalist lines were a couple of hundred yards beyond the pillar. The Parliamentary lines were the other side of the modern day road on the forward slope of a low ridge. My walk took me down Atterworth Lane and then left along the tree line through the heart of the battlefield and into the area where Cromwell's cavalry had been so decisive in rampaging through Byron's wing and, with the help of the Scots, routing Prince Rupert's elite troops. The final act of the battle was the last stand of the Earl of Newcastle's 'whitecoats' where a plucky last stand took the Royalist casualties to over 4,000.

So, back to our Yorkshire holiday where a later trip to the lovely town of Skipton presented me with a chance to visit the the Norman Castle which still stands at the top of the High Street. Following the Royalist defeat at Marston Moor, Skipton held out against the Parliamentarians until December 1645.

Skipton Castle, Yorkshire

The castle at Skipton was given up to Cromwell after a lengthy siege. Legend has it that sheepskins were hung from the walls to provide reinforcement against cannon fire. To this day sheep skins feature on the town coat of arms. The castle is a splendid place to visit nowadays. It's empty rooms echo with the voices of history though a substantial part of the building remains a private residence. Some years after the civil War, the owner, Lady Ann Clifford, sought Cromwell's permission to reinstate the roof which had been demolished after the siege to prevent the building being used for military purposes. Permission was granted and the castle is now topped with an ornamental parapet and a rather fragile roof - deliberately so, in order to ensure that this highpoint could not be used as a firing platform for artillery.

The Volkhov Front - Novgorod Sector (1941 - 1944)

2011-08-27T14:42:00.000+01:00

The lower reaches of the Volkhov River marked the South Eastern flank of the German 'Army Group North' for the duration of the siege of Leningrad. Behind the German lines on the West bank crucial supply lines snaked down from the Gatchina area to Lake Ilmen and beyond. German strongpoints at Demyansk and Staraya Russa were reliant on the 16th Army - entrenched on the Volkhov with its' Southern flank anchored in the Novgorod area.

We visited Novgorod in May - upon arrival there was snow on the ground but just one week later the weather was uncomfortably hot. Such is the climate of Russia. The picture above shows the spectacular War Memorial in the centre of town.From October 1941 to August 1942 the city was held by the Spanish Blue Division (Division Azul). The Division held a 50 km front from the shores of Lake Ilmen running North through the city. We were surprised to find a War Memorial dedicated to the Blue Division in the Novgorod German cemetery a couple of kilometres South of the city centre. The picture below shows the Memorial which lists the names of about 2,000 Spaniards buried in the cemetery.

When the Blue Division moved North in the summer of 1942 the Spanish engineers took the cross from the top of Saint Sophia cathedral in the city. The cross resided at the Spanish Engineers Academy in Hoyo de Manzaneras, Madrid for 60 years. It has recently been returned and can be seen in the cathedral.

South of the city is the superb Yuriev monastery. A German strongpoint in the war, the grounds are covered in vestiges of old bunkers and defensive positions. Across the water, but still on the West bank one can visit the remains of the original Lower Volkhov bridge, destroyed in 1941. The picture below shows a view looking South towards Lake Ilmen.

North of the city, much of the fighting in 42/43 was centred in the area of Myasnoy Bor. It was here that Vlasov's 2nd Shock Army broke through the German lines pushing forward to break the Leningrad Siege. Overall though the Lyuban Offensive failed as the German strongpoints along the river held fast in the face of the Russian onslaught. Vlasov's Army was surrounded and destroyed. Vlasov was taken prisoner by the Wehrmacht on July 6th 1942. The picture below shows a T34 just north of the point that formed the centre of the Lyuban jumping off point.

A few days before getting to Novgorod we had spent time in the bush around Demjansk (which will be the subject of a future blog entry). To the East of the town we had witnessed the excavation of fallen Russian (and German) soldiers. At Myasnoy Bor we felt honoured to be invited to the funeral and burial of other Russian heroes - this time from the area North of Volkhov where the Russian 52nd and 59th Armies were decimated. The picture below shows the ceremony at the impressive Myasnor Bor Memorial complex.

Travelling back to St Petersburg on the most direct route takes the traveller along the old German front line for about 100km. In 1942 because of shortages of personnel the 16th Army wasn't able to man an uninterrupted front line. Instead the Wehrmacht set up a series of interlocked strongpoints. We visited the sites of a few. In particular Spassky Politka which successfully held out for a couple of weeks during the Lyuban Offensive. The remnants of gun pits, bunkers and trenches were there - though inaccessible due to water logged ground.

Battle Group Scherer - 105 days in Cholm, Russia

2011-05-26T21:37:00.004+01:00

Or as the Russian's call it, 'Kholm'. During the first week of December 1941 Marshall Zhukov launched Operation Typhoon and, in combination with appalling weather, pushed the invading German army back from the gates of Moscow. In the North on the Southern Flank of Heeresgruppe Nord the German 16th Army reeled under the blow, conceding ground but not the two primary routes through the swamps covering the area between the lakes of Seeliger and Ilmen. These routes ran through the towns of Demjansk and Kholm. At Kholm a force of just 5,500 men under the command of Major General Theodor Scherer, though completely surrounded, held out for 105 days withstanding 100 infantry attacks (42 of which were supported by tanks). When the garrison was relieved, only 1,200 survivors remained. Throughout the ordeal the besieged men were supplied by air, and in the absence of heavy weapons, were supported by artillery 10 miles away in the main German lines. Following this epic battle Scherer was awarded a Knight's Cross and his men were feted as heroes all over Germany.

Kholm War Memorial

Nowadays Kholm is a sleepy provincial Russian town. The road down from Demjansk is pitted with potholes and bordered on both sides by swampy ground - dark, wet and inhospitable. The few villages on patches of higher ground still show the scars of WWII - particularly churches which, damaged in the war years, remained uncared for during the Soviet era.

Our small group walked the line of the final 'kessel' perimeter. It rained all day long but that didn't dampen our spirits - for, with a little imagination, it was easy to project back to the time of the siege Dec 1941 to May 1942. The huge Soviet War Memorial lies close to the site of the original GPU (during the siege a hugely important German strongpoint). I found myself reflecting on the appalling fate of the local Jewish population noting that the site of their destroyed synagogue was nearby.

The Soviet war memorial is sited on the eastern bank of the River Lovat and walking north, one can quickly discern some of the features apparent in contemporary photographs and first hand accounts; the 'Rote Ruine', 'Lausepelz', the site of the original church and the depths of the 'Policeman's Ravine'. Standing on the cliff top one can gaze across the Lovat to the eastern bank and reflect on the epic 105 day siege. it is relatively easy to scramble down to the river bank and see where the 1941/42 bailey bridge was sited.

River Lovat Crossing, Kholm (1942)

Most of the original town has been destroyed but there is one recognisable building remaining - solidly built and easily spotted through referencing contemporary photographs. Behind the house there is a memorial to the victims of political repression.

One of the few surviving houses in Kholm

Students of the battle will know that on the eastern bank, the town cemeteries were scenes of heavy fighting. We were unable to find either and concluded the sites had been swallowed up by new housing.

To the north of the site of the original crossing there is an impressive modern bridge. Crossing over to the western bank there is plenty to see since it was here that Scherer set up his Headquarters - accessible from the town centre via the bailey bridge. A swift walk to the high ground revealed plenty of features associated with the siege - trenches, gun positions and evidence of dugouts. The old road down to the western end of the old bridge is easily found.

Site of Lovat Crossing (2011)

The striking thing about the landscape here, is the cliff on the eastern bank which seems almost out of place in a landscape characterised by lakes and swamps. It is obvious why Kholm was so important to the invading German Army.

On the extreme west of the 'kessel' area lies the old airfield. During the conflict some 2,000 sorties were flown - initially by JU-52's and then gliders. The change of approach was forced by a 30% loss rate in aircraft. As the 'kessel' area was compressed because of the intensity of the fighting, the airfield became part of 'no mans' land and each glider landing was greeted by frantic efforts from both sides to retrieve the valuable contents.

Anti Tank Gun, Kholm Airfield

For more photographs please go to the 'Kholm Pocket' link on my Index Page (see tab at the top of this page). For an incredibly vivid description of the siege I recommend Russ Schneider's excellent semi fictional account - 'The Siege'.

The Sherman at Slapton Sands, Devon

2011-05-01T08:09:00.001+01:00

A Bank Holiday in the UK (courtesy of William and Katherine) provided the time for a family day out on the South Devon coast. It's a beautiful area with picturesque towns, meandering waterways and rolling hills. There are stretches where the beaches take on a different character however. One such beach is the six mile strip at Slapton Sands.

In December, 1943 this area began to be used for trial landings in preparation for D-Day. Slapton Beach was selected because of its similarity with Utah Beach. Those of you who have visited the latter will recall a long gravel beach fronting a strip of land with a lake beyond.

Today, next to a cluster of holiday homes and a couple of popular pubs, the horizon is marked out by the familiar profile of a Sherman Tank (below). Closer examination shows that the tank was recovered from the sea in 1984 by a local hotelier called Ken Small. The Sherman had been 6o metres underwater, 1km out to sea since it was lost during 'Exercise Tiger' in April, 1944.

The story is a tragic one. A full practise assault was scheduled for the 29th April, 1944. Eight LSTs carrying vehicles and combat engineers were intercepted by marauding German E-boats out of Cherbourg. The result was catastrophic for the American troops. Two LSTs were sunk (LST-531 and LST-289) and a further craft was badly damaged. In total 946 lives were lost - most at sea but some on shore later - a result of friendly fire.

Afterwards the survivors were sworn to secrecy. Earlier the village had been evacuated with some 3,000 residents moving elsewhere. News of the tragedy was released in August 1944 but only after the recovery of the bodies of ten officers where there was a particular sensitivity because of their knowledge of D-Day plans.

At the opposite end of the beach there is a striking memorial erected by the United States Army Authorities 'to the people of South Hams who generously left their homes and their lands to provide a battle practice area for the successful assault in Normandy in June 1944'.

An interesting footnote to the story is that one of the original E-boats involved in the attack is currently being restored at Southdown in Cornwall. Incredibly the boat saw extensive service after WWII - eventually being decommissioned from the Kriegsmarine in 1991. The restoration is being funded by Kevin Wheatcroft (an individual with a passion for restoring WWII relics).

Demyansk & Cholm (1942)

2010-12-18T17:52:00.003Z

I've been fascinated by the encirclement battles at Demyansk and Cholm ever since my trip to Volgograd (Stalingrad) a few years ago. A few friends and myself had the opportunity to tour the Stalingrad battlefield and meet Russian and German veterans in a city where, in the winter of 1942/43, the German 6th Army was totally destroyed.

The delusion that Goering would be able to supply over 300,000 men by air until Manstein was in a position to break a corridor through to the beleagured city is one that is difficult to rationalise. And yet the rationale at the time was that there was a powerful precedent - Demyansk.

At Demyansk 6 Divisions of the German 16th Army consisting of 100,000 men held an area of 1,200 square miles for 12 months and 18 days. A smaller group of 5,500 held out at another critical piece of high ground at Cholm. Supply was maintained by several hundred aircraft making daily flights and the successful defence of these 'Kessels' enabled Army Group North to stabilise a battle front which had come near to collapse following Zhukov's momentous counter attack after the ill fated German decision to push for Moscow in the winter of 1941/42.

So, next May with the help of a Russian friend, I will be leading a series of battlefield walks which will retread the steps of Von Leebs' 16th Army through Novrogod and Staraya Russa up into the Valday Hills and then onto the area where these two encirclements happened. The tour is pretty much fully subscribed but I'll be sharing details and photographs from the trip soon after I get back. The Cholm/Demanysk walks are the third in a series focussing on the northern front of the 1941/45 Russian/German conflict.

If you would like to read more about the 'Army Group North' battlefield walks mentioned in this post, they can be accessed through the links below.

The Siege of Leningrad
The Narva Bridgehead

Operation Husky, Malta in 1943

2010-11-06T00:51:00.011Z

My chosen reading for a recent trip to Malta was 'D Day' by John Gunther. Not, as you might imagine, a book about the Normandy landings in 1944 but actually an eye witness account of the assault on Sicily in 1943 - Operation Husky. By a happy coincidence my wife and I found ourselves staying at the Hotel Phoenicia, the same hotel which was used by the author during his visit to the war torn island of Malta. For it was on the island of Malta that the operation was planned.

A short walk from the Hotel and quite close to the RAF Memorial, one cannot miss the huge medieval bastions surrounding the old town of Valetta. It was below these city walls, at the foot of the Lascaris Bastion, that Eisenhower planned the invasion of Sicily.

I'm told that the site is about to be turned into a tourist attraction. However, I was lucky in getting to see this historic place in its 'natural' state. Gunther recalls going down into the tunnels to what was known as '947' and meeting the General in a room that he described as a 'cubby hole'. Some 67 years later and after negotiating my way through a series of tunnels and rubbish strewn passageways, I was able to identify vestiges of the original military presence. The following photographs show the complex as it is now.

One doesn't need to go far to see evidence of the impact of WWII on the Island of Malta. The decaying ruins of Valetta Opera House are testimony to the punishment visited upon the brave islanders as a result of Malta's strategic importance in protecting supply routes across the Mediterranean. (Bravery that was recognised by the award of a George Cross to the entire population).

Malta has many fascinating historical sights many of the most interesting which go back to time of the Knights of the Templar in the Middle Ages. For this trip my interest was drawn towards the vestiges of 19th and 20th century military architecture - sturdy legacies of the British occupation of the island which eventually ended in 1974. There are a number of interesting sites scattered around the island - these in addition to the major cocentrations in the area of the Grand Harbour, Valetta. One such site away from the main conurbations is Imtarfa. Here, the old Officer's Mess (above) is easy to find, situated as it is, in Officer's Mess Road.

The barracks themselves are now apartments. I found the original pediment sitting by the side of an access road (above). Other sites worth visiting include the empty Pembroke barracks, the airfield at Takali and the dilapidated Naval Hospital in Valetta. We visited in April, before the heat of summer and hired a car to explore this fascinating island. To see all of the sites we covered please click here.

Stirling Bridge (1297), Falkirk (1298) and Bannockburn (1314)

2010-09-06T17:53:00.005+01:00

They say that you can see thirteen battlefields from the top of the Abbey Craig near Stirling - the gateway to the Scottish Highlands. Last weekend I visited three of them. In the fourteenth and fifteenth century the only sensible route to the north was across the Forth at Stirling and up through the valley beyond. So, when Edward 1st sent a formidable English Army to consolidate his hegomony over this previously independent country, William Wallace and Andrew Moray chose this spot to give the invaders a bloody nose.

In a tactically brilliant action Wallace (Left) and Moray let part of the heavily laden English army across the bridge and then attacked - cutting off their forces on the North side of the river. Floundering in marshy ground and faced by a ferocious albeit small Scottish Army, the English were severely beaten. Of the English commanders, The 7th Earl of Surrey (John de Warenne) survived but Hugh de Cressingham lost his life to Wallace wielding a huge double handed sword. The sword can still be seen on the first floor inside the Wallace Memorial (see picture above) on the bluff where the Scots laid in wait for the English.

This astonishing feat of arms has little in common with the portrayal of the battle in the film 'Braveheart' though I would imagine the rhetoric and demeanour of the Scottish troops is probably quite accurate.

The picture above shows what is purported to be one of the earliest stones commemorating Sir William Wallace's attempts to regain Scotland's nationhood. The memorial is located in the aptly named town of Wallacestone where local legend has it that Wallace fought the first Battle of Falkirk. Like Stirling Bridge ten months previously, Wallace was outnumbered but had a highly motivated army. To quote the film 'Braveheart' "they can take our country but they can't take our freedom". Unfortunately since Stirling Bridge a number of Scottish nobles had withdrawn their support for Wallace. Without cavalry his small army was outclassed by an English Army equipped with a thirst for revenge and over a thousand archers. Wallace's army was destroyed and the man himself barely escaped with his life. (He was later betrayed and tortured/executed in London).

Enter Robert the Bruce, a man who had switched his allegiance from the English and now fought to win the crown of Scotland. At Bannockburn in 1314, Bruce defeated a 20,000 strong army led by Edward II with a Highland force of just 6,000 heads. The picture above shows the modern day monument which stands on the Borestone where Robert the Bruce raised his standard. The area in the background is the New Park (left) and Coxett Hill (right). Here the Scots had barred the route to Stirling Castle which the English were looking to reinforce. To the right of the monument is an area previously known as the Carse (boggy ground). This was where the English originally made camp.

In a similiar fashion to the tactics used by Wallace at Stirling Bridge, part of the English Army were trapped on the northern side of a couple of tidal streams (the Bannock and Pelstream Burns). The fighting lasted two days and ended in a decisive Scottish victory. Once again English underestimation of their opponents and poor choice of ground left archers isolated, cavalry ineffective in marsh land and the bulk of the army fighting in a confined space with their backs to the impassable watercourses over which they had struggled during the previous day - after a long and arduous march.

The Grand Harbour, Malta

2010-08-21T18:21:00.019+01:00

Family holidays often present an opportunity to follow through on my interest in military history. Earlier ths year my wife and I took a trip to Malta. The Grand Harbour was for many years the home of the British Mediterranean Fleet and I know from old documents held in my family archive that a relative of mine had been based on the island at the turn of the century.

Amongst Ernest's legacy of photographs and documents, I have a picture of HMS Commonwealth steaming into the Grand Harbour, Malta. Luckily for me, my wife was keen to go on a Harbour Cruise so I took the opportunity to take the photo shown below. Same location as the top photograph but with a 100 year time difference.

Ernest Ward (or Uncle Ernest, as I knew him) had joined the RMA aged just 15 years old and served on a variety of ships for 20 years rising to the rank of Sergeant. Prior to joining HMS Tiger (on which he experienced the Battle of Jutland), Ernest served on HMS Commonwealth. He spent a considerable amount of time on the Island of Malta. I have a map of the island on which my Great Uncle has marked the places which he visited though sadly what were country walks, are now journeys down busy roads in built up urban areas.

Amongst Ernest's legacy of photographs and documents, I have a picture of HMS Commonwealth steaming into the Grand Harbour, Malta. Luckily for me, my wife was keen to go on a Harbour Cruise so I took the opportunity to take the photo shown above. Same location as the top photograph but with a 100 year time difference.

The third photo in this set shows Ernest aboard ship winning plaudits for his gunnery skills on board HMS Commonwealth. Ernest's service record shows that he was awarded a Gunnery Medal on 26th July 1912. His skill was to put to the test in 1914 when HMS Tiger came into contact with the German battleship, Blucher, at Dogger Bank. Ernest was one of the recipients of a bounty for sinking this leviathan.

V Weapons on the Cotentin Peninsula

2010-07-24T10:01:00.010+01:00

Had the V1 bases at La Sorellerie and L'Orion, near Cherbourg, become operational then the city of Bristol would have been within range of these terrifying weapons. The successful allied landings in Normandy from June 6th 1944 meant that this scenario never turned into reality. Both sites are complete though neither were actually used in anger.

The sites can be found, albeit with some difficulty, approximately five miles south of Cherbourg on the Contenin Peninsula. We had just about given up trying to find them - having found just a single hard structure for housing a mobile searchlight battery. Luckily a local farmer came to our rescue and we were able to visit most of the buildings that make up the L'Orion site - though frustratingly, we weren't able to find the primary 'ski' ramp.

The pictures above show (top to bottom) the main command bunker, a V1 storage tunnel (heavily camouflaged and impossible to find without local help), a gun pit on the site perimeter and a building housing two V1 maintenance bays. There is evidence of heavy bombing in the vicinity but these buildings have survived well - most probably because they are well protected by earthworks and are tucked away in a natural fold in the landscape.

Tiger at Vimoutiers

2010-06-11T19:55:00.013+01:00

There are many WWII relics in Normandy today and one of the most impressive is this Tiger which can be found close to the spot where it was abandoned during the German withdrawal in the summer of 1944. The tank is believed to be from Panzer Abteilung 503. On the 19th August 1944 several tanks were making their way towards a fuel dump set up at the Chateau de L'Horloge having extracated themselves from the Falaise Pocket. This one probably ran out fuel and it is known that it was bull-dozed into a roadside ditch on the Vimoutiers to Gace road (N179). Many years later, in May 1975, it was recovered and restored.

Bristol Air Defence 1940 - 1944

2010-02-20T21:52:00.011Z

Between 2nd November 1940 and 15th May 1944, Bristol was subjected to a series of bombing raids. Six of these were on a huge scale, causing considerable damage across the city. During the period 1,299 civilians were killed. Over 85,000 properties were destroyed with much of the city centre, including 6 historic churches, suffering total wipeout.

The main defence against air attack was heavy anti aircraft artillery. Today, it is possible to visit the sites of some of the key batteries. One of the most famous was the 6 gun heavy battery on Purdown Hill. The third picture above shows the mountings in No. 1 gun emplacement. The site is in a disgraceful condition. The emplacements are behind wire as is the ammunition store (though the latter can be explored with a little ingenuity). Eye witness accounts tell of 'Purdown Percy' making a cacophony of noise as the 6 guns opened up on incoming Luftwaffe aircraft.

The top two pictures are from the site of Bristol No.2 Heavy Anti Aircraft battery which can be found close to the town of Portishead. The battery was sited on the coastal plain with good line of sight over the port complexes at Portbury and Portishead. There is much to see on the site today. The original sentry box & guard house (albeit 'augmented' by post war camouflage paint), the ammunition store, 4 numbered gun positions, deep bunkers and the vehicle store with inspection pit. Remarkable that I've only just found this facinating site which is just a few miles from my home.

Wolfe & Montcalm in Quebec

2009-08-12T12:57:00.014+01:00

It is 250 years (almost to the day) since Wolfe led a 5,300 strong force into Quebec City and claimed Canada for the British Crown. The assault had been made via the Abraham Heights after a prolonged artillery barrage from across the St Lawrence river. Montcalm's French army along with a large French Canadian contingent had been routed within 30 minutes after receiving the full force of British volley fire. 250 years later - in 2009 - the planned re-enactment has been cancelled following pressure from local French Canadian activists but nevertheless my brother in law and I had a great day walking the Heights of Abraham battlefield. The battlefield is now a national heritage site containing a number of military artifacts.

The pictures above were taken in the citadel (a later construction). The top image shows 'Rachel' an 1870 British cannon pointing over the old city. Several generations ago my father's Great Grandfather (Arthur Taylor) served in Quebec (in the 1860s/70s). It may be a coincidence but his daughter was called Rachel too! The other picture shows a WWII veteran posing beside a bren gun carrier in the Quebec Citadel which is now the headquarters of the Canadian 22nd regiment.

The Battle of Lansdown Hill

2009-05-25T21:29:00.009+01:00

This battlefield is a little closer to home than others that I've visited recently. On the 5th July 1643 Sir Ralph Hopton's 6,300 strong Royalist Army from the South West of England attempted to seize the city of Bath which was being defended by Waller's parliamentarians (some 4,000 strong). The monument shown in my picture commemorates Sir Bevill Grenville, a Cornish Royalist Commander. It stands on the ridge held by Waller's troops - a position which was taken at great loss of life by the Royalist attackers. The battlefield can be walked in an hour or so. There are markers showing the main defensive positions and helpful explanatory storyboards. Apart from the historic context, this site is a spectacular location affording fantastic views of Bath and beyond.

The Narva Bridgehead [1944]

2009-05-07T17:07:00.014+01:00

I have just returned from a few days of field walking on the Estonian: Russian border. The town of Narva is the gateway from Russia into the Baltic States. In the Spring of 1944 Army Group North was forced back from forward positions around Leningrad and, in Estonia, a new defence line was established along the banks of the River Narva. Despite Russian incursions, 18th Army including Steiner's 111 Panzer Corps held the line (including a bridgehead encompassing Invorogod on the East bank) for six months. Following an orderly withdrawal in July, a second defence line called 'Tannenburg' was set up with the Blue Mountains of Eastern Estonia forming the primary strongpoint. Nobody knows more about this battle than an old friend of mine, Paul Errington. Armed with Paul's local contacts and his extensive knowledge of the battle a group of us explored the Narva Defence Line and the killing ground of Sinimaed (Grenadier Hill, Kinderheim and Hill 69.9). The pictures show a T34 at Silvertsi (Top), the German Cemetery at Narva (Middle) and the memorials on Grenadier Hill (Bottom). The battle is primarily remembered for the Dutch, Norwegian, Belgian and Estonian volunteers serving with the Axis forces.

German Occupation of Jersey [1940 to 1945]

2009-04-04T18:09:00.010+01:00

Have just returned from a walking holiday in Jersey. Early April is a lovely time of year to visit the island. Few tourists, spring flowers and cheap prices. My wife and I walked most of the cliff tops on the North coast. As usual I had a secret agenda.......Festung Jersey! The Channel Islands were occupied by the Germans through WW2 and Hitler ordered Jersey, Guernsey, Stark and Alderney to be fortified. 20% of Todt's Atlantic Wall budget was originally earmarked for the islands. The evidence is everywhere. The pictures above show: (1) A panel from the Occupation Tapestry at St Helier (2) A range finder at the Lothringen Battery, Noirmont Point and (3) One of the four gun emplacements at the Moltke Battery, Les Landes. [The Moltke gun 1s a 15.5cm French piece. After the war tons of material was thrown off the cliff at Rouge Nez by the Royal Engineers. Recently, a group of local enthusiasts have recovered and restored a number of artifacts].

Gettysburg connection in Clevedon

2009-01-25T20:01:00.005Z

An interesting reference to the Battle of Gettysburg. This gravestone can be found in the graveyard of St Andrew's church in Clevedon. The church is an idylic location overlooking the Severn estuary. Apparently Frederick Durbin travelled to America in order to participate in the civil war. He felt strongly about the evil of slavery and fought with the Union army. Frederick gave instructions that his passing should be commemorated in the event of anything happen to him.

The Cambs Suffolks at La Boisselle

2008-11-30T18:36:00.011Z

I've walked many battlefields on several continents but the ground I constantly return to consists of just a few hundred square metres in front of the tiny village of Becourt, near Albert on the Somme. It is here that the New Army Battalion known as the Cambs Suffolks suffered unbearable casualties shortly after 7:30 in the morning on Saturday, July 1st, 1916. This summer I led a small group of pilgrims across this sacred ground - a walk I have done maybe a dozen times. From Becourt CWGC where amongst the Cambs Suffolks graves one can find the resting place of Rob Gilson. Gilson was an officer with the Cambs Suffolks. A sensitive man, his closest friend was the the author JRR Tolkien. And then past the whispering woods, through the grounds of the Chateau and on to the old British Front Line. Pause - and then up towards 'Sausage Valley' and Lochnager (last picture), the Glory Hole and on to Gordon Dump (first picture). Finally back via Round Wood and the site of Sausage Redoubt where Captain Brown did more than most on that fateful day 92 years ago. I snapped the second picture from the back of a ferry in Calais Harbour - 'Going Home'.

The Normandy-Niemen Squadron

2008-07-24T18:58:00.015+01:00

A day trip to Les Andelys brought an unexpected surprise last week. The town is home to the Normandie-Niemen Squadron Museum. Marcel Leferve, one of the pilots came from the town and when he died a few years ago, the museum was set up to commemorate his memory and that of the other brave Frenchmen who flew with the Russians on the Eastern Front. The squadron flew 5,240 missions and achieved 273 confirmed victories. Of the 96 pilots who fought, 42 never returned and are commemorated on the photo panel below. The Squadron still exists.

Caporetto to the Piave - Italy 1917

2008-06-09T21:56:00.010+01:00

There must be few battlefields to compare with Caporetto in Italy (now Kobarid in Slovenia). In May I led a small group in a week of walking covering the collapse at Caporetto, the retreat to the Piave and the British actions on the Asiago plateau. Very soon I'll tell the story on my site. For now, here is a taster.

New York

2008-04-04T13:51:00.005+01:00

My wife treated me to a long weekend in the wonderful city of New York for my birthday. We did a lot of great things and during a ramble around Brooklyn I came across a fabulous monumental arch celebrating the Union victory in the American Civil War. This photo shows some of the detail from one of the bronze reliefs. This neo-Roman style monument is located on Grand Army Plaza close to the Brooklyn Bridge and was designed by John Duncan in 1892.

Boston

2008-02-03T21:54:00.000Z

Prior to Christmas I found myself doing a couple of weeks work in Boston, USA. Having a free weekend I searched out a few battlefield sites. I rather like the picture on the left which I took in the Charlestown Naval Base on the deck of the WW2 Pacific Campaign war horse, USS Cassin-Young. In the background it is possible to see the Bunker Hill Memorial. This was the first battle of the American war of Independence. The British won but payed a very heavy price. The picture on the right shows a panel from the American Civil War Memorial in downtown Boston. Lovely detail and unusual (for the period) insofar as it shows black soldiers.

The Bay of Pigs, Cuba

2007-12-23T22:24:00.000Z

Even on a family holiday I can't resist the odd detour to visit a battlefield or two. In Cuba this stretched to the Museum of the Revolution in Havana, the naval base in Cienfuegos and the Bay of Pigs. These photographs were taken about six weeks ago. The Bay of Pigs is now a tranquil place frequented by Cubans taking their obligatory two week annual holiday and divers keen to dive on the wrecks which still litter the ocean floor.

Flying Boats

2007-10-17T19:09:00.000+01:00

Pembroke Dock was, until 1957, home to many of Britian's stock of seaplanes. One observer recollects seeing 99 planes in Pembroke Sound during the dark days of 1943. There's a fascinating museum in one of the Victorian Seaforts abutting the quayside. Coincidentally my father recently gave me a photograph of a Sunderland taken in 1953. In his words; "The flying boat was a 'Sunderland' and was stationed at RAF Calshot at the foot of Southampton Water. The Met people there had to calll a boat in order to get to work. Once I was asleep at the back of Hamilton Road and a flying boat roared overhead. The pilot had mistaken the lights of South Parade Pier for the flare path at Calshot!".

Auschwitz

2007-09-14T06:30:00.000+01:00

I'd thought long and hard about visiting Auschwitz. Mo and I were in Krakow and it was just a two hour train journey. But ... the impact of this place of horrors could be too much to bear. Anyway we did it and were moved to tears by what we found. A salutary lesson in where blind prejudice can end.

Mosquito Wreckage

2007-08-09T23:02:00.001+01:00

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Visiting a garden centre near Wisbech, Cambridgeshire last weekend I chanced upon wreckage from a war time crash. The remains of a Mosquito recovered from a nearby estuary.

The de Havilland Mosquito, serving with 85 Squadron, went missing on 20 March 1945 while being flown by Flight Lieutenant Gabriel Ellis from Norwich and Sergeant William Reidy from Boscombe. For 60 years their fate was a mystery. However, in April of 2004, the harbourmaster at King's Lynn spotted a propeller tip protruding from the mud of the Wash. A team from the Royal Navy's Southern Diving Unit, based at Portsmouth, was tasked to investigate and they were able to identify the aircraft as the missing Mosquito. Given the possibility that the crewmen might still be aboard, and the likely presence of ammunition, the MOD's Marine Salvage Unit was asked to recover the wreckage.

Working with the Royal Navy divers and RAF engineers, the salvage team was able to recover the major metallic parts of the aircraft - the engines, propellers and two of the four Hispano cannon; as is well-known, most of the Mosquito was built from wood and this has perished in the sea. Most importantly, they were also able to bring ashore the remains of the two airmen. The RAF's Personnel and Training Command will work with their surviving relatives to decide the most appropriate burial in accordance with the families wishes.

The undercarriage has yet to be located - the salvage team plans to return to the site in the autumn to conduct another search. 85 Squadron was a night-fighter unit, which in 1945 was serving with Bomber Command's 100 Group, supporting the bomber offensive with patrols over Germany hunting down enemy night-fighters in the air and attacking them on the ground at their airfields.