Nowadays, the once-mighty Fort Loncin, one of a chain of fortifications built around the strategically important Belgian city of Liège, resembles an alien landscape. The hill that once concealed the fort is now a jumble of peaks, craters and escarpments, punctuated by grotesquely tilted steel structures and twisted metalwork.
When I visited the site earlier this year, I expected to find evidence of wartime destruction. However, the scene that greeted my fellow battlefield walkers and me was astonishing. What had once been a formidable fortress had been transformed into a landscape of almost total devastation.
Under the weight of this artillery bombardment, the forts began to fall, despite the courageous resistance mounted by Lieutenant-General Gérard Leman’s force of some 34,500 defenders. The first to succumb was Fort Barchon, situated on the right bank of the River Meuse, to the north-east of Liège.
Conditions inside the forts were horrendous. The relentless bombardment, dust, heat and mounting casualties made life for the defenders increasingly unbearable. Matters were made worse by a significant design flaw: the latrines were located outside the main fortifications, separated from them by an exposed area vulnerable to enemy fire. This shortcoming was addressed in the much more modern Fort Eben-Emael, constructed in the 1930s.
The decisive moment came when only three forts remained in Belgian hands. As the massive Big Bertha mortars opened fire on Fort Loncin, the defenders could hear the approaching shells. Leman himself survived the bombardment and later described its terrifying intensity:
‘We heard a rushing of air which increased in intensity until it became a hurricane roar and ended in a dreadful crash of thunder; fountains of earth and smoke were thrown into the air, and the whole earth shook.’
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| The undamaged entrance to Fort Loncin - copyrite Phil Curme |
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| Comparison - the undamaged cap at Fort Lantin |
After more than two hours of bombardment, which must have driven the garrison to the limits of endurance, a shell penetrated the fort’s protective dome of concrete and steel and exploded in the magazine. The resulting blast devastated the fort and brought resistance to an end. Of the 550 men manning the fort, 350 became casualties. General Leman himself survived, just.
We could hardly make out the trace of the fort. The ruins formed a miniature alpine landscape, with debris strewn about like pebbles in a mountain stream. Heavy artillery and ammunition had been thrown everywhere; a cupola had been blown from its place and now looked like a monstrous tortoise, lying on its shell. A few blackened and dazed Belgians were stumbling about the wreckage'.
This devastating demonstration of the destructive power of modern artillery prompted the surrender of the neighbouring forts of Hollogne and Flémalle, opening the way into France for von Kluck’s forces.
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| Fort Loncin Memorial - copyrite Phil Curme |
There is a modest admission fee to visit Fort Loncin. Near the entrance, a fascinating little museum is packed with photographs, artefacts, uniforms and other memorabilia. To reach the fort itself, visitors must walk around a small bungalow that has been built, rather incongruously, within the boundaries of the destroyed fort.
On the day of our visit, the bungalow’s owner was also running the museum. Delighted to welcome us, he generously took the time to show us a wealth of additional material that was not normally on public display.
Given the experience of the Liège forts, it is perhaps surprising that the French Army embraced the concept of a static, fortified line to defend its frontiers in the 1930s. Moreover, the fall of Fort Eben-Emael to German airborne troops on 11 May 1940 would demonstrate that heavy artillery was not the only threat to the effectiveness of fortifications as a means of conducting defensive warfare.
For my portfolio of Liege photographs, including the forts, click here.





