I come from a family of Royal Marines and, for many years, was a regular visitor to the old Royal Marines Museum at Eastney. So, I approached the opening of the new 'Royal Marines Experience' in Portsmouth Historic Dockyard with rather mixed feelings.
Sadly, the old museum building at Eastney is now looking rather forlorn and derelict. Having closed some years ago, I understand that it is once again up for sale. It is disappointing to see the old home of the Royal Marines Museum in such a state, particularly for those of us with a personal connection to the place.
The good news, however, is that a new Royal Marines Museum (known as the Royal Marines Experience) has opened in Portsmouth Dockyard following a £15 million investment.
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| The Royal Marines Experience, Portsmouth Dockyard |
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| Original Royal Marines Museum, Eastney |
I have to confess that I went along with some trepidation. I was very fond of the old museum and wondered whether the new one would live up to expectations. Would it be dumbed down, overly orientated towards children or perhaps rather superficial? Would the artefacts and historical content that I had come to expect be missing?
My expectations were, if I'm honest, relatively modest.
I needn't have worried. I came away enormously impressed.
A new home in Portsmouth Dockyard
The museum is housed in an attractive old building alongside one of the dockyard's basins. Upon reflection, it is an appropriate location. Portsmouth Historic Dockyard already offers a wonderful collection of naval attractions, and the Royal Marines have an obvious and longstanding association with the dockyard.
On entering, the foyer initially seems quite understated, with the museum shop to the right and reception ahead. Visitors are directed towards two distinct areas, and it is here that one of the museum's greatest strengths becomes immediately apparent.The designers have managed to separate the family-friendly, interactive experience from the more serious historical interpretation. This is something I particularly liked.
So many museums nowadays seem determined to appeal to everybody in the same space. The result can be a compromise that satisfies nobody, with historical content simplified to the point where it loses much of its value.
Here, the approach works extremely well. The more interactive and family-oriented exhibits occupy the outer areas, while the central space is devoted to the history of the Royal Marines.
The history at the heart of the museum
I would describe the central historical exhibition as a gateway into the Royal Marines' remarkable history and, importantly, into the museum's archive.
The space is arranged around a series of glass display cabinets, with further exhibits around the perimeter. The selection of artefacts is excellent, and the way they have been brought together tells the story of the Corps remarkably well.
There are interactive screens which allow visitors to explore the objects in greater detail. At the centre of the exhibition is a large interactive table, divided into three sections, through which visitors can explore a wonderful collection of photographs, maps, biographies and other material drawn from the archive.
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| The main exhibition area |
The interpretation is particularly impressive. It is clear that considerable care has been taken to get the history right, rather than simply producing an attractive but superficial account.
I know something about the Anglo-French campaign in China between 1856 and 1860, and I was particularly interested to see how the Royal Marines' involvement in that campaign had been presented. I have to say that it was absolutely spot on, avoiding many of the historical pitfalls that can creep into more popular accounts.
Alongside the familiar stories of the two World Wars, the exhibition also covers more recent conflicts, including Northern Ireland and Iraq. The result is a genuinely comprehensive account of the Corps' history, extending well beyond the familiar episodes.
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| The Mahdi's Sudan artefacts |
One particularly thoughtful feature is the treatment of the Sudan campaigns of the late nineteenth century. Among the artefacts on display are examples of clothing and weapons associated with the Mahdist forces.
What impressed me was that the museum team had taken the trouble to engage with the local Sudanese community, bringing together members of that community with historians and experts from the Royal Marines Historical Society.
This collaboration has produced a much richer interpretation. It is an excellent example of how museums can bring different perspectives together to provide a more rounded understanding of historical events.
A superb medal collection
One of the highlights for me was the display of medals.
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| The medal display |
The medals are arranged thematically, with examples from different periods of the Corps' history, accompanied by relevant artefacts. It is a beautifully presented exhibition and one that deserves some time.
In front of the display is an interactive unit which allows visitors to explore the history behind the medals. You can look up recipients of the Victoria Cross, examine medal groups and discover more about individual objects.
In each case, there are photographs, biographies and supporting archival material. It is an excellent way of bringing the stories behind the medals to life, rather than simply displaying them as objects in glass cases.
Something for all the family
Having spent time in the central historical exhibition, I moved on to the more interactive areas around the outside.
The first section includes an impressive immersive presentation about the modern Royal Marines Commandos. It has something of the feel of a recruitment film, but it is very well produced and provides a good insight into the challenges faced by today's Royal Marines and the extraordinary demands of their training.
Beyond this is an area which I suspect is primarily aimed at younger visitors, although I would challenge anyone of any age not to find something entertaining here.
There is an eye-catching section devoted to the Royal Marines Band and its history, including the instruments used by the musicians. One of the interactive exhibits allows visitors to put on headphones and try their hand at playing drums, attempting to keep time with the Royal Marines Corps of Drums.
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| Joining the Corps of Drums |
But perhaps the most spectacular of the interactive exhibits are the virtual reality experiences.
Put on a VR headset and you find yourself immersed in a military scenario, whether in the Middle East or another operational setting. You are moving through the environment with your fellow Marines, dealing with threats, engaging the enemy and, importantly, having to remain aware of the presence of civilians.
It is hugely entertaining and exceptionally well done. Although clearly designed to appeal to younger visitors, I suspect plenty of adults will enjoy it just as much. I certainly did!
A fitting place for remembrance
As you leave the exhibition, there is one final area which I thought was particularly appropriate.
This is a space devoted to remembrance, with photographs of Royal Marines who have lost their lives over the years. Visitors can also listen to the Royal Marines Prayer and other appropriate music while spending a few quiet moments reflecting on the sacrifices made by members of the Corps.
It provides a thoughtful and dignified conclusion to the visit.
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| Royal Marines - The Falkland Islands |
A few minor reservations
No new museum is entirely without its teething troubles, particularly one which has opened relatively quickly following a substantial investment. There are one or two rough edges which I suspect will be ironed out as the museum settles into its new home.
For example, some of the labelling is a little awry, and there are occasions where labels are in place but the associated artefacts are not. These are relatively minor points, but tidying them up would undoubtedly improve the visitor experience.
The external signposting could also be better. Although there are signs directing visitors towards the building, there is no obvious sign on the building itself identifying it as the Royal Marines Museum. It took me a little while to establish that I had actually found the right place!
There are also inevitably some things that visitors might wish to see more of. I would have liked a little more material on the Royal Marines Artillery (RMA), which receives a mention but perhaps deserves rather more attention. That may, admittedly, reflect my own family interest.
Similarly, some visitors might wonder why certain artefacts from the history of the Corps are not on display. However, I think it is important to understand that this is not necessarily intended to be a traditional museum displaying as many objects as possible. Rather, the central exhibition provides a window into the much wider Royal Marines archive, allowing visitors to explore its photographs, documents, biographies and other historical material.
Seen in that context, the approach works extremely well.
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| One of the precious objects on display |
A thoroughly worthwhile visit
So, what did I make of the new Royal Marines Museum?
I went along with relatively low expectations, concerned that the move away from Eastney might have resulted in something less substantial than the museum I had known and valued for so many years.
I could not have been more pleasantly surprised.
The new museum manages to achieve something that many museums struggle with: it successfully caters for different audiences without compromising the quality of the historical content.
The central exhibition is historically rigorous, intelligently interpreted and supported by an excellent selection of artefacts and archival material. The medal display is particularly impressive, while the interactive facilities provide a wonderful opportunity to explore the history in greater depth.
The family-oriented areas are equally successful, offering a range of activities that are genuinely engaging rather than simply being there to keep children occupied.
Most importantly, the museum treats the history of the Royal Marines with the seriousness and respect it deserves. It recognises the Corps' extraordinary heritage while also showing how it has evolved to meet the demands of modern warfare.
I still regret the loss of the old museum at Eastney, and I hope that something positive can eventually be done with that historic building. But having visited the new museum, I am convinced that the Royal Marines now have a very worthy home in Portsmouth Dockyard.
I went expecting to be disappointed. I came away genuinely impressed.
