Beyond Pearl Harbor: Walking the Military History Trails on Oahu (1898-1950)

 The annexation of Hawaii was approved by the US Congress in July 1898, following the Spanish-American War of that year and the acquisition of a new and substantial  'colony' - the Philippines. The vast natural harbour at Pearl had assumed huge strategic importance and the building of defensive structures on the island of Oahu started immediately. Although access to much of the island's military heritage is restricted, there are a number of spectacular hiking trails that cover decommissioned gun batteries, pill boxes and forts. Perhaps the most popular is the Diamond Head Trail - indeed it is so popular that the Hawaii State Park Authority has been obliged to restrict numbers which is why a ticket must be purchased in advance.

Diamond Head Volcano from Honolulu

If you are staying in Waikiki then the start of the trail is easily accessed via a $3 public bus trip. The nearest stop is perhaps half a mile from the start of the trail (the blue line Waikiki Tourist Trolley gets you right up to the park entrance). In the picture above, one can see the crater of the extinct Diamond Head (Le-'ahi) volcano. The trail is on the extreme right of the massif and Fort Ruger is on the highest point of the crater rim. From 1906 onwards, a network of tunnels was carved into the mountain, and gun emplacements were placed atop the crater rim along with observation posts and bunkers. The Fort was substantially reinforced during the Second World War - though the guns were never fired in anger.

The walk to the top is best tackled early in the morning before the heat becomes too oppressive, and take plenty of water. The trail, which was built to provide access to Fort Ruger for the garrison and for the provision of supplies, is about a mile long and winds through tunnels and emplacements before culminating in a very lengthy stairway which takes the visitor up to the highest point. Once at the top, the views over Waikiki and Honolulu are magnificent. Even with the ticketing system, the route can be crowded - its' proximity to the tourist hotspot of Waikiki and the fact that it makes for a doable day trip for cruise passengers makes it a popular destination (another reason to get up there early in the day). 

Honolulu from Diamond Head

Another popular 'pillbox' hike on Oahu is the Lanikai (Ka'iwa) Pillbox Trail. Again, the start of the trail can be reached by public transport from Waikiki although it is necessary to change buses in the lovely town of Kailua - an upmarket resort with a spectacular white sand beach. This is the winward side of the island so expect big waves and lots of surf. After completing the hike one can either walk straight off the trail and take a dip on the superb Lanikai beach or head into Kailua where the ocean side facilities are better - sporting beach showers and restaurants.

Lanikai Beach

The Lanikai Pillbox Trail is not for the faint hearted. There is a sign at the bottom saying that many hikers get into trouble and that the emergency services are frequently called to the area. I'd hooked up with a Korean Doctor who, having alighted at the same bus stop as me, was obviously looking to hike the trail. With a medical practitioner in tow I figured that if I did get into trouble then help would be on hand! The trail is just under two miles but the route up is extremely steep and at times felt more like a rock climb than a walk. The two graffiti covered 1943 'hardened' observation posts offer fantastic views though, so the effort was worth it. 

One of the Lanikai Observation Posts

The Kaneohe Naval Air Station a few miles up the coast was one of the first targets of the Japanese attack on the US Pacific Fleet at Pearl Harbor on the 7th December 1941. The Imperial Japanese Navy were keen to protect the location of their carrier fleet so the seaplanes at Kaneohe were to be knocked out before the main attack. The base is still active so access is not possible.

Even further north on the windward coast is the Kualoa Ranch - known as Jurassic Valley because of its' choice as a location for a series of blockbuster Hollywood movies. The ranch incorporates parts of the Second World War era Kualoa Airfield and it is possible to take a tour which covers some of the wartime installations. In particular the bunkers and tunnels of the Cooper Battery which were used as locations for the HBO series 'Lost'. Inside one of the tunnels there is an exhibition covering the wartime history along with various props from the movies filmed nearby - including the polar bear from 'Lost'.

Jurassic Valley and King Kong's Ribcage!

My stay on the island was just ten days, and so my exploration time was pretty limited. Suffice to say that there is plenty more to explore - although Pearl Harbor, dwarfs everything in terms of scale, significance and interest. Many of the observation posts, gun positions and airfields were built on Oahu after the 7th December 1941 attack. My initial thoughts were along the lines of 'shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted' but upon reflection it was clearly appropriate to bolster the defences on the island, given the criticality of the Pacific Fleet to the four year struggle with Japan which followed on from the 'Day of Infamy'. A comparison with Malta in the Mediterranean seems appropriate - both the location for a large natural harbour and each peppered with airfields and other military assets.

My Flickr portfolio of Oahu images here.

My Flickr portfolio of Pearl Harbor images here.

A visit to Pearl Harbor (2025)

 The last survivor of the USS Arizona, Lou Conter, died on 1 April 2024 at the age of 102. One of a unique generation, Lou was amongst a favoured minority, for 1,177 of his shipmates were killed when the Arizona was sunk during Japan's 'unexpected' attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7th, 1941. The attack marked the start of a vicious conflict between Japan and USA which finally ended with the detonation of two atomic bombs over Hiroshima and Nagasaki almost four years later. It also emboldened Adolf Hitler, Chancellor of Germany, to declare war on the USA, thus ensuring that the seemingly limitless military and industrial resources of the United States could be decisively applied in support of the Allied cause in Europe. 

Today, the Arizona remains undisturbed at the mooring where it was berthed during the Imperial Japanese Navy's attack - a war grave which for many decades has been the focus of mourning for relatives, friends and comrades remembering all of those who were killed on what President Roosevelt described as a 'day of infamy'. The poignancy of the site is enhanced by Stanley Bleifeld's sculpted figure of a 'lone sailor' who, with his collar up and his kit bag beside him, gazes mournfully across the sound to the site of the wreck on Battleship Row alongside Ford Island. 

The Lone Sailor, the Arizona Memorial

The Arizona Memorial is cared for by the USA's National Parks Service (NPS) and the site is reached from the NPS Visitor Centre by shuttle boat. The centre pieces of the Visitor Centre are the 'Lone Soldier' statue and one of Arizona's massive anchors, and there are two linked museums - one covering the IJN's 7th Dec 1941 attack and the other providing valuable context. Ford Island and much of the surrounding area is still an active US Navy establishment and home to the Pacific Fleet, so access to most areas is strictly limited. Aside from the Visitor Centre, one can visit the Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum (within NPS jurisdiction) and, across on Ford Island, the USS Missouri Memorial 'The Mighty Mo' and the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. It is also possible to book a round-the-island tour which picks up the USS Nevada Memorial. 

USS Bowfin / Submarine Museum

The shuttle boat to the viewing platform which sits astride the stricken USS Arizona is manned by serving US Navy personnel who are at pains to point out that the site is a war grave and that a degree of solemnity is expected. My fellow passengers were an eclectic mix of tourists - some from the mainland USA and many from Japan, South Korea and Australasia. 

I suppose that very few people with direct knowledge of those killed make the trip now, and I wasn't surprised that a high proportion of visitors were more interested in capturing selfies of themselves in front of the large open windows through which remnants of the Arizona can be seen projecting above the water, rather than making their way to the wall of remembrance which lists the names of all of those killed. I make no judgement here - as time passes, then inevitably the significance and meaning of such sites changes, and maybe diminishes.

The USS Arizona War Grave.

Aside from the human tragedy of approximately 2,403 deaths during the 7th December attack, the IJN destroyed or damaged 188 U.S military aircraft and 21 U.S. warships (of which 6 were sunk). The sites of the sunken ships are marked by white-painted floating pontoons. In the 1980s the names of each ship were painted on the sides of these structures, but on the occasion of my visit work was underway to paint the names out so as to 'to maintain the integrity of the original structures'. 

The first wave of attacking Japanese planes, targeted the various airfields across the island of O'ahu. In an inexplicable act of complacency many of the U.S. aircraft were parked in tight lines - unarmed and effectively inoperable. Easy pickings for the experienced IJN pilots. It's not easy to access many of the wartime airfields on O'ahu as many remain active - the Naval Air Station at Kaneohe, Wheeler Field and Hickam Field to name a few. However, the Aviation Museum on Ford Island is housed in a couple of wartime era hangers (Numbers 37 & 79) - which still show the marks of battle.

IJN 'Zero' fighter - through recovered Arizona plate

Bullet holes, hanger on Ford Island

For an extra fee, it is possible to climb to the top of the old Naval Air Station control tower on Ford Island. The airfield is no longer operational but it remains much as it was back in 1941, and there is an excellent view to be had from five or six levels above ground. Looking in the Honolulu direction from the top of the tower, one can see the USS Missouri berthed on what was Battleship Row, nestled between the white pontoons marking where ships were sunk during the IJN attack. 

The USS Missouri, known as the Mighty Mo, was launched in 1944 - a state-of-the-art battleship that saw active service through until the early 1990s. Her significance to Pearl Harbor is that it bookends U.S. involvement in the Second World War. The starting point was of course the IJN attack on the 7th December 1941, and the end of the conflict was sealed when Japanese envoys signed the Instrument of Surrender on the quarterdeck deck of the 'Mighty Mo' in Tokyo Bay on the 2nd September 1945.

USS Missouri - from Ford Island Control Tower

The USS Missouri Memorial is open for ticketed visits. Like the Aviation Museum and the control tower, visitors are bussed onto Ford Island via a causeway which is strictly controlled by the U.S Navy. Once within the confines of the Memorial (or indeed the Aviation Museum), visitors are unable to explore further without special permission. 

The 'Mighty Mo' was the last battleship commissioned by the United States Navy and following her launch, she participated in the Battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa before shelling the Japanese home islands. After participating in the Korean War, she was decommissioned in 1955. However, in 1964 the Missouri was reactivated and modernised. Before her final decommissioning she was active during Operation Desert Storm in 1991. In her later life she carried a crew of 117 officers and 1,804 men and throughout her service deployed 3 massive triple 16 inch guns - as well as a plethora of other weapons and defensive capabilities.

One of the triple 16 Inch gun turrets on USS Missouri

I opted for one of the two available, add-on 'experiences' - the 'Captain's Tour' (the other being the 'Engineers Tour'). Whilst there is plenty to see as part of a standard visit it was good to visit the Captain's quarters and stations, commentated upon by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide. It was a particular thrill to squeeze inside one of the three main gun turrets and view the breeches, loading mechanisms and controls. One can only imagine the effect on the enemy when these monsters 'spoke'.

The ship is set up as it was in the late 1980s, so a self-guided tour gives plenty of insight into what life on board must have been like in the latter stages of the Missouri's service. There is poignant memorial on what is now known as the 'Surrender Deck' and it is quite a privilege standing on the spot where the surrender document was signed. Towards the front of the ship is the literally named 'Kamikaze Deck'. On the 11th April 1945 the ship was hit on the starboard side by a kamikaze plane. The impact caused a fire which was quickly extinguished and the then Captain, William M. Callaghan, ordered a military burial for the fallen pilot.

Captain's Cabin - USS Missouri

For my portfolio of Pearl Harbor photographs, click here.

My seven tips for a successful visit to Pearl Harbor (in no particular order).

1) Book the Arizona shuttle boat in advance, just one dollar. Similarly the Ford Island Tour (if running).

2) Travelling from Waikiki use the 20 or 42. The 42 is quickest. Just $3, download the MyBus app so you can get real time info on bus arrivals.

3) The bus drops off in the parking lot but you need to walk up to the highway for the return.

4) Best to split your visit over two days. Day 1 the Arizona, Visitor Centre museums and the Submarine Museum. Day 2 the attractions on Ford Island - USS Missouri and the Aviation Museum.

5) Consider booking a couple of add-ons. I would recommend the Captain’s tour on the Missouri and the tour of the control tower at the Aviation Museum.

6) The shuttle to Ford Island is one-way, so book the attractions in the right sequence - USS Missouri (Mighty Mo) first and then the Aviation museum. Otherwise you will have to return to the Visitor Centre between attractions (you can’t walk between them).

7) Travel light, don’t take a bag as you will need to pay to store it.