Earlier this year my wife and I spent a few days in Singapore on the beautiful resort island of Sentosa, which is linked to the mainland by a modern day causeway. Nowadays, it is a magnet for tourists attracted by the pristine beaches, the lush vegetation, the up-market hotels and the ultra modern attractions such as Universal Studios and the Singapore Marina. It was a different story in the late 19th Century and early 20th Century though - when apart from the swamps and abundant vegetation, four substantial sea-facing gun batteries were in operation on the island - Fort Serapong, Fort Siloso, Fort Connaught and the Imbaih Battery. These batteries originally built to deter Russian intruders gained a new importance in the late 1930s and early 1940s as expectations grew that Japan would invade. When they did come - from the landward north rather than the sea, Sentosa was used by the Imperial Japanese Army as a squalid prisoner-of-war camp until the liberation of the territory in 1945.
| One of the guns at Fort Siloso, Singapore |
Conveniently, a free beach shuttle runs along the full length of Sentosa, linking a string of beach resorts and turning around beneath the landward end of a spectacular walkway which leads tourists into the restored Fort Siloso, a heritage area which is now designated as Singapore's 74th National Monument. So off we went!
There are four colour coded walks around the Fort. The red and yellow routes cover 'Singapore during WWII' and 'the Life of a Soldier'. the other routes cover the wider history and include some truly spectacular viewpoints. In post war history the sea facing batteries on the southern side of Singapore are often dismissed as an irrelevance given that when the Japanese did invade, they came in from Malaysia on the mainland to the north. However, as the Japanese moved towards Tengah Airfield to the north-west of the Singapore city area, the Fort's guns were turned 180 degrees and used to try and slow the advance - but to no avail.
| Fort Siloso Guards Room (now a Museum) |
There is plenty to see and learn. Some of the Second World War era gun batteries and observation posts have been restored and other structures have been converted into exhibition spaces where the story of the unsuccessful defence of Singapore by British and Commonwealth forces in 1942 is told. In particular, General Percival's surrender of the 80,000 strong Allied defenders is depicted in a reconstruction of the actual ceremony which took place at Fort Canning on mainland Singapore. Described by Winston Churchill as the worst disaster and capitulation in British history, as an aside, it was one of two World War II events that angered my father (the other being the the treatment of Bomber Command veterans post 1945).
| Fort Canning Hotel, formerly Far East Command |
| The entrance to the Battle Box Bunker, Fort Canning Hill |
The next day we headed across the Sentosa Island Bridge to mainland Singapore and explore a couple of other sites associated with the Second World War. Our first stop was Fort Canning Hill which was the epicentre of British command and control during the 1942 battle. The British and Commonwealth Far East Command was based in what is now a luxury hotel (see picture above) from 1926-41. The hill on which this impressive building sits was a highly secure military zone and as the tide quickly turned in favour of the Japanese, Percival and his headquarters staff, who had since set up a field command centre in the Sime Road area to the north of the island, moved into a nearby bunker complex on Canning Hill in order to avoid enemy bombing sand artillery fire. It was in the Battle Box bunker that the surrender was signed on the 15th Feb 1941 and afterwards the whole of the Canning Hill complex, including the Battle Box (now a museum), was used by the Japanese until the return of British colonial authority over Singapore in 1945.
| Then & Now, Japanese Surrender, 12 September 1945 |
Several years ago I had the privilege of meeting a WWII veteran, Gordon Smith-Gander who was a resident at a care home where my wife worked. Gordon was a real gentleman and it was a pleasure hearing him talk about his service. He had completed a tour with Bomber Command flying Hampdens over Germany before transferring to Coastal Command where he flew Sunderlands on u-boat hunting missions over the Bay of Biscay. At the end of hostilities in Europe, Gordon volunteered for service in the Far East and was present when the Japanese signed their unconditional surrender in Singapore's Municipal building (now City Hall) on the 15th Febriuary 1945. The contemporary photo above is from Gordon's photo album and the image which accompanies it was captured by me during our recent visit.
| Kranji CWGC, Singapore |
Having visited the spot where the Allied surrender took place, my wife and I made use of Singapore's excellent transit system to travel up to Kranji where a ferocious battle was fought during the first few days of the Japanese incursion. On the 9th February 1941 two Divisions of the Imperial Japanese Army under General Yamashita undertook an amphibious attack in this area. The Jurong-Kranji defence line was a natural obstacle which was defended by primarily Indian and Australian troops who fought a strong and effective defence before being ordered to abandon the line and retreat. It's an action which is mired in controversy but that's not a topic I'm going to unpick in this post. Suffice to say a lot of brave men and women are now buried with many others in the beautifully maintained Kranji Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery.
| The Singapore Memorial, Kranji |
| Gardeners of Kranji |
It was quite a long walk from the bus stop up to the cemetery and we were visiting on a very hot day. Once through the gates my wife and I were delighted to be ushered into an air-conditioned office and offered cold drinks. The custodian was very keen to give me a tour of the cemetery and I grasped the opportunity whilst my wife 'manned the front desk' enjoying a respite from the midday heat. As with every other CWGC site the headstones all have stories to tell, and there were many to be told at Kranji. It's a spectacular site on a hill which is home to over 25,000 fallen service personnel. At the top of the hill stands the striking Singapore Memorial and from the crest one can see the tall buildings of the Malay peninsular on the other side of the Strait of Johor - see the images above.
My final observation is that the planting at Kranji is spectacular - a fusion of colour and shape which complements the war graves perfectly. It was a pleasure to meet some of the gardeners and to hear from the site custodian about the planning of the gardens and how the planting is designed to meet local conditions and to reflect the culture and homelands of those who are buried nearby.
My photographs (copyright reserved) of Fort Siloso, Sentosa Island, Singapore - click here
My photographs (copyright reserved) of Kranji Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery - click here
The Pilot Officer Gordon Smith-Gander Collection (copyright reserved) - click here