The Portuguese island of Madiera was, until recently, an isolated spot - a small volcanic outcrop off the coast of Africa - just 35 miles long and 13 miles wide. Now access is easy via budget airlines and cruise ships. It's an ideal destination for a sunshine break, although for our few days in April the temperature did not rise above 12 degrees (apparently an unusual quirk of the weather). It's not an obvious source of battlefield walks but if one digs deep then there is some fascinating military history to be uncovered.
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| Machico Fort |
Madeira's military history is shaped by its strategic position in the Atlantic, and the story really starts with the numerous incursions by pirates during the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Madeira's wealth from sugar and wine attracted Berber corsairs such as the infamous Morat Rais who attacked the island several times in 1617. Fortifications were built around the coast, an excellent example being the custard coloured triangular Fort de Nossa Senhora in the town of Machico, built in 1706 by Francisco Dias Franco a customs officer. The fort is given over to local government now, but one can walk around it and view the cannons up on the parapets.
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| Fort of Sao Tiago |
The Fort of San Tiago in Funchal, the island's capital, was built about a hundred years earlier, in the early 1600s. Most of the complex is currently closed to visitors but one can stroll around the entry courtyard where there is a popular cafe with a lovely view over the harbour below. During the Napoleonic Wars the island was occupied by British troops - initially for a year from 1801 up until the peace of Amiens and then from 1807 to 1814. The Fort of Santiago served as the Army Headquarters.
A half hour walk away, one can find the rather striking fort known as the Palacio de Sao Lourenco which was built a little later. Built to defend the town against pirates, it now serves as the residence of Madeira's Prime Minister. The entrance is guarded by white gloved sentries and a French built 1904 75mm Schneider Canet field gun can be found on a grassy slope nearby.
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| Schneider Canet Field Gun - Funchal |
The British have left their mark elsewhere in Funchal. The British Cemetery contains six 20th Century Commonwealth War graves and, amongst other Victorian burials, one can find the first gazetted Victoria Cross winner. Captain Cecil William Buckley, Royal Navy, won his VC in 1875 for actions during the supression of piracy in the Singapore Straits. Sadly, despite two attempts, my wife and I were unable to gain access to the cemetery, but I was able to capture an image over one of the boundary walls. Buckley is in there somewhere!
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| British Cemetery, Funchal |
Further afield in the pretty fishing village of Camara de Lobos there is an intriguing connection with Winston Churchill - something that the local tourist industry has taken full advantage of (and why not?). Churchill's connection to Madeira is more personal than military. in 1899 he briefly stopped at the island en route to South Africa as a correspondent covering the Boer War. Later, in 1950, he took a 12 day break on the island, staying at the magnificent Reid's Hotel in Funchal. Seeking respite, he painted a scene of Camara de Lobos, which has since generated a steady stream of visitors to the village.
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| In Churchill's footsteps - Camara de Lobos |
The Pestana Hotel in Churchill Bay is a wonderful place to stop for a drink and a bite to eat. The bar is a shrine to the famous British wartime leader, with numerous photographs, items of ephemera and various posters. You can even take a seat next to the great man as he completes his artwork!
