A visit to Pearl Harbor (2025)

 The last survivor of the USS Arizona, Lou Conter, died on 1 April 2024 at the age of 102. One of a unique generation, Lou was amongst a favoured minority, for 1,177 of his shipmates were killed when the Arizona was sunk during Japan's 'unexpected' attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7th, 1941. The attack marked the start of a vicious conflict between Japan and USA which finally ended with the detonation of two atomic bombs over Hiroshima and Nagasaki almost four years later. It also emboldened Adolf Hitler, Chancellor of Germany, to declare war on the USA, thus ensuring that the seemingly limitless military and industrial resources of the United States could be decisively applied in support of the Allied cause in Europe. 

Today, the Arizona remains undisturbed at the mooring where it was berthed during the Imperial Japanese Navy's attack - a war grave which for many decades has been the focus of mourning for relatives, friends and comrades remembering all of those who were killed on what President Roosevelt described as a 'day of infamy'. The poignancy of the site is enhanced by Stanley Bleifeld's sculpted figure of a 'lone sailor' who, with his collar up and his kit bag beside him, gazes mournfully across the sound to the site of the wreck on Battleship Row alongside Ford Island. 

The Lone Sailor, the Arizona Memorial

The Arizona Memorial is cared for by the USA's National Parks Service (NPS) and the site is reached from the NPS Visitor Centre by shuttle boat. The centre pieces of the Visitor Centre are the 'Lone Soldier' statue and one of Arizona's massive anchors, and there are two linked museums - one covering the IJN's 7th Dec 1941 attack and the other providing valuable context. Ford Island and much of the surrounding area is still an active US Navy establishment and home to the Pacific Fleet, so access to most areas is strictly limited. Aside from the Visitor Centre, one can visit the Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum (within NPS jurisdiction) and, across on Ford Island, the USS Missouri Memorial 'The Mighty Mo' and the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. It is also possible to book a round-the-island tour which picks up the USS Nevada Memorial. 

USS Bowfin / Submarine Museum

The shuttle boat to the viewing platform which sits astride the stricken USS Arizona is manned by serving US Navy personnel who are at pains to point out that the site is a war grave and that a degree of solemnity is expected. My fellow passengers were an eclectic mix of tourists - some from the mainland USA and many from Japan, South Korea and Australasia. 

I suppose that very few people with direct knowledge of those killed make the trip now, and I wasn't surprised that a high proportion of visitors were more interested in capturing selfies of themselves in front of the large open windows through which remnants of the Arizona can be seen projecting above the water, rather than making their way to the wall of remembrance which lists the names of all of those killed. I make no judgement here - as time passes, then inevitably the significance and meaning of such sites changes, and maybe diminishes.

The USS Arizona War Grave.

Aside from the human tragedy of approximately 2,403 deaths during the 7th December attack, the IJN destroyed or damaged 188 U.S military aircraft and 21 U.S. warships (of which 6 were sunk). The sites of the sunken ships are marked by white-painted floating pontoons. In the 1980s the names of each ship were painted on the sides of these structures, but on the occasion of my visit work was underway to paint the names out so as to 'to maintain the integrity of the original structures'. 

The first wave of attacking Japanese planes, targeted the various airfields across the island of O'ahu. In an inexplicable act of complacency many of the U.S. aircraft were parked in tight lines - unarmed and effectively inoperable. Easy pickings for the experienced IJN pilots. It's not easy to access many of the wartime airfields on O'ahu as many remain active - the Naval Air Station at Kaneohe, Wheeler Field and Hickam Field to name a few. However, the Aviation Museum on Ford Island is housed in a couple of wartime era hangers (Numbers 37 & 79) - which still show the marks of battle.

IJN 'Zero' fighter - through recovered Arizona plate

Bullet holes, hanger on Ford Island

For an extra fee, it is possible to climb to the top of the old Naval Air Station control tower on Ford Island. The airfield is no longer operational but it remains much as it was back in 1941, and there is an excellent view to be had from five or six levels above ground. Looking in the Honolulu direction from the top of the tower, one can see the USS Missouri berthed on what was Battleship Row, nestled between the white pontoons marking where ships were sunk during the IJN attack. 

The USS Missouri, known as the Mighty Mo, was launched in 1944 - a state-of-the-art battleship that saw active service through until the early 1990s. Her significance to Pearl Harbor is that it bookends U.S. involvement in the Second World War. The starting point was of course the IJN attack on the 7th December 1941, and the end of the conflict was sealed when Japanese envoys signed the Instrument of Surrender on the quarterdeck deck of the 'Mighty Mo' in Tokyo Bay on the 2nd September 1945.

USS Missouri - from Ford Island Control Tower

The USS Missouri Memorial is open for ticketed visits. Like the Aviation Museum and the control tower, visitors are bussed onto Ford Island via a causeway which is strictly controlled by the U.S Navy. Once within the confines of the Memorial (or indeed the Aviation Museum), visitors are unable to explore further without special permission. 

The 'Mighty Mo' was the last battleship commissioned by the United States Navy and following her launch, she participated in the Battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa before shelling the Japanese home islands. After participating in the Korean War, she was decommissioned in 1955. However, in 1964 the Missouri was reactivated and modernised. Before her final decommissioning she was active during Operation Desert Storm in 1991. In her later life she carried a crew of 117 officers and 1,804 men and throughout her service deployed 3 massive triple 16 inch guns - as well as a plethora of other weapons and defensive capabilities.

One of the triple 16 Inch gun turrets on USS Missouri

I opted for one of the two available, add-on 'experiences' - the 'Captain's Tour' (the other being the 'Engineers Tour'). Whilst there is plenty to see as part of a standard visit it was good to visit the Captain's quarters and stations, commentated upon by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide. It was a particular thrill to squeeze inside one of the three main gun turrets and view the breeches, loading mechanisms and controls. One can only imagine the effect on the enemy when these monsters 'spoke'.

The ship is set up as it was in the late 1980s, so a self-guided tour gives plenty of insight into what life on board must have been like in the latter stages of the Missouri's service. There is poignant memorial on what is now known as the 'Surrender Deck' and it is quite a privilege standing on the spot where the surrender document was signed. Towards the front of the ship is the literally named 'Kamikaze Deck'. On the 11th April 1945 the ship was hit on the starboard side by a kamikaze plane. The impact caused a fire which was quickly extinguished and the then Captain, William M. Callaghan, ordered a military burial for the fallen pilot.

Captain's Cabin - USS Missouri

For my portfolio of Pearl Harbor photographs, click here.

My seven tips for a successful visit to Pearl Harbor (in no particular order).

1) Book the Arizona shuttle boat in advance, just one dollar. Similarly the Ford Island Tour (if running).

2) Travelling from Waikiki use the 20 or 42. The 42 is quickest. Just $3, download the MyBus app so you can get real time info on bus arrivals.

3) The bus drops off in the parking lot but you need to walk up to the highway for the return.

4) Best to split your visit over two days. Day 1 the Arizona, Visitor Centre museums and the Submarine Museum. Day 2 the attractions on Ford Island - USS Missouri and the Aviation Museum.

5) Consider booking a couple of add-ons. I would recommend the Captain’s tour on the Missouri and the tour of the control tower at the Aviation Museum.

6) The shuttle to Ford Island is one-way, so book the attractions in the right sequence - USS Missouri (Mighty Mo) first and then the Aviation museum. Otherwise you will have to return to the Visitor Centre between attractions (you can’t walk between them).

7) Travel light, don’t take a bag as you will need to pay to store it.

Madeira: Respite for Churchill, Target for Pirates and the first Victoria Cross

 The Portuguese island of Madiera was, until recently, an isolated spot - a small volcanic outcrop off the coast of Africa - just 35 miles long and 13 miles wide. Now access is easy via budget airlines and cruise ships. It's an ideal destination for a sunshine break, although for our few days in April the temperature did not rise above 12 degrees (apparently an unusual quirk of the weather). It's not an obvious source of battlefield walks but if one digs deep then there is some fascinating military history to be uncovered.

Machico Fort

Madeira's military history is shaped by its strategic position in the Atlantic, and the story really starts with the numerous incursions by pirates during the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Madeira's wealth from sugar and wine attracted Berber corsairs such as the infamous Morat Rais who attacked the island several times in 1617. Fortifications were built around the coast, an excellent example being the custard coloured triangular Fort de Nossa Senhora in the town of Machico, built in 1706 by Francisco Dias Franco a customs officer. The fort is given over to local government now, but one can walk around it and view the cannons up on the parapets.

Fort of Sao Tiago

The Fort of San Tiago in Funchal, the island's capital, was built about a hundred years earlier, in the early 1600s. Most of the complex is currently closed to visitors but one can stroll around the entry courtyard where there is a popular cafe with a lovely view over the harbour below. During the Napoleonic Wars the island was occupied by British troops - initially for a year from 1801 up until the peace of Amiens and then from 1807 to 1814. The Fort of Santiago served as the Army Headquarters.

A half hour walk away, one can find the rather striking fort known as the Palacio de Sao Lourenco which was built a little later. Built to defend the town against pirates, it now serves as the residence of Madeira's Prime Minister. The entrance is guarded by white gloved sentries and a French built 1904 75mm Schneider Canet field gun can be found  on a grassy slope nearby.

Schneider Canet Field Gun - Funchal

The British have left their mark elsewhere in Funchal. The British Cemetery contains six 20th Century Commonwealth War graves and, amongst other Victorian burials, one can find the first gazetted Victoria Cross winner. Captain Cecil William Buckley, Royal Navy, won his VC in 1875 for actions during the supression of piracy in the Singapore Straits. Sadly, despite two attempts, my wife and I were unable to gain access to the cemetery, but I was able to capture an image over one of the boundary walls. Buckley is in there somewhere!

British Cemetery, Funchal

Further afield in the pretty fishing village of Camara de Lobos there is an intriguing connection with Winston Churchill - something that the local tourist industry has taken full advantage of (and why not?). Churchill's connection to Madeira is more personal than military. in 1899 he briefly stopped at the island en route to South Africa as a correspondent covering the Boer War. Later, in 1950, he took a 12 day break on the island, staying at the magnificent Reid's Hotel in Funchal. Seeking respite, he painted a scene of Camara de Lobos, which has since generated a steady stream of visitors to the village.

In Churchill's footsteps - Camara de Lobos

The Pestana Hotel in Churchill Bay is a wonderful place to stop for a drink and a bite to eat. The bar is a shrine to the famous British wartime leader, with numerous photographs, items of ephemera and various posters. You can even take a seat next to the great man as he completes his artwork!