The annexation of Hawaii was approved by the US Congress in July 1898, following the Spanish-American War of that year and the acquisition of a new and substantial 'colony' - the Philippines. The vast natural harbour at Pearl had assumed huge strategic importance and the building of defensive structures on the island of Oahu started immediately. Although access to much of the island's military heritage is restricted, there are a number of spectacular hiking trails that cover decommissioned gun batteries, pill boxes and forts. Perhaps the most popular is the Diamond Head Trail - indeed it is so popular that the Hawaii State Park Authority has been obliged to restrict numbers which is why a ticket must be purchased in advance.
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| Diamond Head Volcano from Honolulu |
If you are staying in Waikiki then the start of the trail is easily accessed via a $3 public bus trip. The nearest stop is perhaps half a mile from the start of the trail (the blue line Waikiki Tourist Trolley gets you right up to the park entrance). In the picture above, one can see the crater of the extinct Diamond Head (Le-'ahi) volcano. The trail is on the extreme right of the massif and Fort Ruger is on the highest point of the crater rim. From 1906 onwards, a network of tunnels was carved into the mountain, and gun emplacements were placed atop the crater rim along with observation posts and bunkers. The Fort was substantially reinforced during the Second World War - though the guns were never fired in anger.
The walk to the top is best tackled early in the morning before the heat becomes too oppressive, and take plenty of water. The trail, which was built to provide access to Fort Ruger for the garrison and for the provision of supplies, is about a mile long and winds through tunnels and emplacements before culminating in a very lengthy stairway which takes the visitor up to the highest point. Once at the top, the views over Waikiki and Honolulu are magnificent. Even with the ticketing system, the route can be crowded - its' proximity to the tourist hotspot of Waikiki and the fact that it makes for a doable day trip for cruise passengers makes it a popular destination (another reason to get up there early in the day).
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| Honolulu from Diamond Head |
Another popular 'pillbox' hike on Oahu is the Lanikai (Ka'iwa) Pillbox Trail. Again, the start of the trail can be reached by public transport from Waikiki although it is necessary to change buses in the lovely town of Kailua - an upmarket resort with a spectacular white sand beach. This is the winward side of the island so expect big waves and lots of surf. After completing the hike one can either walk straight off the trail and take a dip on the superb Lanikai beach or head into Kailua where the ocean side facilities are better - sporting beach showers and restaurants.
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| Lanikai Beach |
The Lanikai Pillbox Trail is not for the faint hearted. There is a sign at the bottom saying that many hikers get into trouble and that the emergency services are frequently called to the area. I'd hooked up with a Korean Doctor who, having alighted at the same bus stop as me, was obviously looking to hike the trail. With a medical practitioner in tow I figured that if I did get into trouble then help would be on hand! The trail is just under two miles but the route up is extremely steep and at times felt more like a rock climb than a walk. The two graffiti covered 1943 'hardened' observation posts offer fantastic views though, so the effort was worth it.
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| One of the Lanikai Observation Posts |
The Kaneohe Naval Air Station a few miles up the coast was one of the first targets of the Japanese attack on the US Pacific Fleet at Pearl Harbor on the 7th December 1941. The Imperial Japanese Navy were keen to protect the location of their carrier fleet so the seaplanes at Kaneohe were to be knocked out before the main attack. The base is still active so access is not possible.
Even further north on the windward coast is the Kualoa Ranch - known as Jurassic Valley because of its' choice as a location for a series of blockbuster Hollywood movies. The ranch incorporates parts of the Second World War era Kualoa Airfield and it is possible to take a tour which covers some of the wartime installations. In particular the bunkers and tunnels of the Cooper Battery which were used as locations for the HBO series 'Lost'. Inside one of the tunnels there is an exhibition covering the wartime history along with various props from the movies filmed nearby - including the polar bear from 'Lost'.
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| Jurassic Valley and King Kong's Ribcage! |
My stay on the island was just ten days, and so my exploration time was pretty limited. Suffice to say that there is plenty more to explore - although
Pearl Harbor, dwarfs everything in terms of scale, significance and interest. Many of the observation posts, gun positions and airfields were built on Oahu after the 7th December 1941 attack. My initial thoughts were along the lines of 'shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted' but upon reflection it was clearly appropriate to bolster the defences on the island, given the criticality of the Pacific Fleet to the four year struggle with Japan which followed on from the 'Day of Infamy'. A comparison with Malta in the Mediterranean seems appropriate - both the location for a large natural harbour and each peppered with airfields and other military assets.
My Flickr portfolio of Oahu images
here.
My Flickr portfolio of Pearl Harbor images
here.
