In 2003, when I last attended a memorial event in Arnhem, many of the Marker Garden veterans were present - enjoying the enduring comradeship of a local population who, in many instances, had vivid memories of the turbulent events which occurred there in September 1944. The returning ex-paratroopers in their maroon 'Airborne' berets were feted as heroes. Sadly most of the veterans are gone, but it is a testament to their bravery that the legacy of their fight for Arnhem lives on. In the company of three good friends I visited the town again earlier this week and was taken aback by the extent to which the struggle to liberate Arnhem from the yoke of Nazism continues to resonate with the generations that followed those with first hand experience.
 |
| Dutch schoolchildren at the Airborne Needle |
For this 80th anniversary every other house seemed to be flying the 1st British Airborne 'pegasus' flag and Union Jacks were everywhere. Sight of our British number plate often prompted a wave or a toot of a horn. In cafes and shops, we were treated like long lost friends and acknowledged as being from a country that "liberated us".
On the 17th September of this year - on the 80th anniversary of the first parachute drop into Arnhem, we attended a service of thanksgiving at the 1st British Airborne Memorial (known to the locals as 'The Needle') near to the Hartenstein in Oosterbeek. It was incredibly moving to see local school children playing a major role in every aspect of the proceedings - handing the wreaths to those who were going to lay them at the foot of the memorial, speaking from the podium and listening attentively to the words being spoken.
 |
| Representatives from the Parachute Regiment |
As the day progressed, the largesse of the locals did not diminish. At the Heelsum Landing Grounds Memorial we met the granddaughter of the man who built this important structure in the summer of 1945. Constructed out of material scavenged from the battlefield, a six-pounder field gun is framed by dropped parachute containers, glider struts and guide rails - plus other Airborne accoutrements. Her mother placed flowers on the memorial on the 17th September every year, and this year a third generation will continue the tradition.
 |
| The Heelsum Memorial |
Moving towards the main road bridge in Arnhem along the route that was taken by John Frost's Battalion on the first day of the battle, we lingered at the St Elizabeth Hospital which is situated at the point where a hastily formed German battlegroup had prevented the bulk of 1st British Airborne from reaching their objective. The hospital has been converted into apartments and on hearing our British accents a resident invited us in. What a privilege it was to see the internal spaces of the building looking much as they were at the start of the battle before the place was given over to the military doctors, nurses and civilan helpers who laboured over injured combatants from both sides as the fighting raged outside.
 |
| The Main Staircase, St Elizabeth's Hospital, Arnhem |
I did have another motive for visiting the town though. Walter Barnden, a man from Clevedon (my home town) was killed during the Battle of Arnhem on the 24th September 1944.
Much has been written about the British, Polish and American airborne troops who fought in the Market Garden operation. Their fight to secure the bridges over various rivers and canals to secure a 60 mile salient from which 21st Army Group would launch a decisive push into the German Ruhr is rightly remembered as a heroic effort. However, the linked advance of XXX Corps along 'Hell's Highway' (or the Cab Route in British military parlance) was also heavily contested and provoked some of the heaviest fighting.
 |
| The spot where Gunner Barnden was killed |
 |
| The road to Elst - where Gnr Barnden was killed |
The area between Nijmegen and Arnhem was known as 'The Island' and it was here, in Driel, that the Polish 1st Parachute Brigade was dropped in an attempt to relive the hard pressed men of 1st British Airborne who had been pushed back into a horseshoe shaped defensive position in Oosterbeek, a suburb of Arnhem on the opposite side of the Lower Rhine. They didn't have the means to cross the river and were under attack by the crack 10th SS Panzer Division, newly bolstered by the recently reconstituted 501st Heavy Tank Battalion.
Walter Barnden served with the 59th Anti-Tank Regiment, Royal Artillery and his battery had been moved up from Nijmagen to assist in an attack on Elst. Deployed near the town of Valburg as part of the 43rd Wessex Division, the battery was faced with formidable opposition in the shape of Tiger and Panther tanks. Indeed, the 501st had just been equipped with 42 'King' Tigers - at 70 tons these were very formidable machines, capable of withstanding the impact of most types of Allied ordnance. Gunner Barnden was killed whilst serving one of the anti-tank guns on the 24th September 1944.
 |
| Upturned Tiger between Valburg and Elst (Bauke Huisman) |
Despite my best endeavours, I haven't been able to find a picture of Walter George David Barnden (service Number. 937475), however what is known is that he was married to Cynthia Josephine (nee Colley) of Clevedon. His parents were from Brislington in Bristol. Gunner Barnden is buried in the beautiful Commonwealth War Graves cemetery in Oosterbeek, one of 1530 British and Commonwealth soldiers interred there. His wife chose an epitaph that would melt the coldest of hearts - Treasured memories of my darling husband. I loved you too much to forget.
 |
| Walter Barnden's grave / Oosterbeek Military Cemetery |
Gunner Barnden's sacrifice is certainly not forgotten. Each grave in the Oosterbeek Military Cemetery is 'owned' and tended by a local young person of school age. Every year on the anniversary of the battle, the designated child leaves flowers and lights a candle in front of the headstone. I can think of no other military cemetery where the locals have such a strong connection with those who fought for their freedom. It seems to me that the bond between Arnhem and the people of the UK will endure for many years to come.
For the story of the first Arnhem casualties who are buried in Weston-super-Mare click here.
For my photographs from the Arnhem 80 (2024) trip click here.
To read about my 2003 visit to Arnhem click here.
