It is just seven days after the Battle of Trafalgar, and the scene at Rosia Bay, Gibraltar is a dramatic one. HMS Victory, under tow, has moored near the quay. Drawing supplies from the nearby victualling store, sailors have started work preparing her for the long journey back to England. Nelson's flagship had been badly damaged during the battle and a subsequent storm - so jury-masts will need to be erected and rigging replaced.
Meanwhile the drama of returning Nelson's body is taking another turn as the brandy filled leaguer (a coffin shaped cask) containing his stricken corpse is brought ashore through the arch which is the only exit from the quay, from where it will be taken up to St Vincent House where the alcohol used to preserve the body will be replaced - or topped up by - 'spirits of wine' ready for transportation back to London.
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| Ship under tow to Gibraltar, 1805 |
It's a compelling picture, and one which motivated me to take a walk down to Rosia Bay from my rented apartment in Engineer Lane a couple of miles away. But is it an accurate description of what happened?
Well, the answer is 'yes, probably' but let's dig into the historical record and try and make sense of this oft quoted narrative. Clearly, the broad circumstances of the return of Nelson's body to London, his state funeral and the eventual interment in St Paul's Cathedral are very well documented. Similarly, it is certain that HMS Victory was towed back to Gibraltar for repairs after the battle. Furthermore the anchorage at Rosia Bay with the nearby workshops and supplies would have been the anchorage of choice.
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| The Rosia Bay Anchorage |
It is also evident from contemporary accounts that work was done to stabilise Nelson's mortal remains whilst the flagship was undergoing repairs. Frustratingly, thought there is no empirical evidence to suggest that the cask was actually brought ashore. So was it? Oral history tradition in Gibraltar affirms that it was and it seems unlikely that the cask would have been left on the main deck whilst the ship was being worked upon. On balance therefore, I'm going to stick with the aforementioned description.
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| Arch through which Nelson's body was brought ashore |
Whilst Nelson's body was returned to England to a hero's welcome, others who perished in the Battle of Trafalgar were buried at sea. Some, of course, died of wounds later and two such men are buried in the Old Trafalgar Cemetery, Gibraltar (formerly known as South Ditch) just outside of the 16th Century town wall - at the point where the Naval dockyard met with the part of town populated by townsfolk. The cemetery is an evocative spot containing men who were killed in various sea battles and the many who died during the yellow fever epidemic which swept through Gibraltar between 1804. When I visited, it was easy to spot the two Trafalgar casualties as their graves were adorned with Royal British Legion Poppy wreaths.
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| The grave of Captain Thomas Norman |
Captain Thomas Norman 'of the Royal Marine Corps and late of HMS Mars' died in the Royal Navy Hospital, Gibraltar on the 6th December 1805 'having suffered several weeks with incredible patience and fortitude under the effect of a severe wound received in the great and memorable sea fight of Trafalgar'. Nearby lies the body of Lieutenant William Forster of HMS Colossus who died of wounds received during the great battle, on the 30th October 1805. Outside the cemetery gates framed by the massive walls of the South Bastion there is a striking statue of Vice-Admiral Nelson which was erected on the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar in 2005.
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| Nelson's Statue - Gibraltar |
Whilst Rosia Bay's place in history was secured by the connection with Nelson, there is another element that draws tourists to the area. On the north side of the bay, at the top of a sheer cliff, one can find the Napier of Magdala Battery where in 1883 a 100 ton 'Rock Buster' rifled muzzle loading (RML) gun was installed. The battery was reshaped to accommodate a 3.7 Inch AA guns during the Second World War (one of which still remains) but the 100 ton RML gun still sits in its' original emplacement and it is possible to see it up close and explore the underground loading chambers from which the gun was served. Made by Armstrongs of Newcastle-upon-Tyne the one ton shells which were fired by this monster, could penetrate almost 25 inches of wrought iron.
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| The 100 Ton Gun, Rosia Bay, Gibraltar |
My interest in HMS Victory, Nelson and the 100 ton gun all derive from family connections. My Great Grandfather served with the Royal Marines Artillery as did two of his brother-in-law. They were all stationed at Gibraltar for a while pre First World War, and so whilst I can't be sure they served the gun, they surely must have visited it. I was born in Portsmouth and visited the dockyard almost every week for many, many years. My Grandmother worked within sight of HMS Victory and a number of Uncles either worked nearby or were Royal Marines based up at Eastney and thus would have been very familiar with Nelson's flagship. What a splendid thing it is, that HMS Victory escaped the wreckers yard and has been so well cared for over the years.
