Nuremberg: The Dark Heart of Nazi Germany (1933-1945)

 In his self-serving autobiography 'Inside the Third Reich', Albert Speer devotes a whole chapter to 'architectural megalomania'. Nowhere was this more evident in the era of Nazi Germany, than in Nuremberg. Indeed, much remains to be seen and explored.

The temptation of diverting to the city during a family road trip down Bavaria's famous 'Romantic Road' was to much, so I booked a hotel and planned an overnight stay. "Is the hotel conveniently located” asked my wife. I  replied in the affirmative quietly noting that aside from easy access to what is left of the old city, the Hilton had been built in close proximity to the so-called Zeppelin Field where the Nazi party had held huge rallies in the pre-war days. Indeed, two of the rallies (1936 & 37) were distilled into one of the greatest works of Nazi propaganda, the 1938 film 'Triumph of the Will'. 

The Focal Point - Rally Grounds, Nuremberg

Many of the structures in the Rally Grounds have been destroyed, but the speakers rostrum and vestiges of the towers marking out the perimeter remain. The vast area within the perimeter is now a windswept expanse of tarmac and scrub. Albert Speer was, of course, known as 'Hitler's architect' (though he progressed to take on less benign roles as the war progressed). In his book 'Inside the Third Reich' (Macmillan, 1970) Speer wrote about his vision for the Zeppelin Field site.

'Early in 1934 Hitler surprised with my first commission. The temporary bleachers on the Zeppelin Field in Nurember were to be replaced by a permanent installation. I struggled over the first sketches until, in an inspired moment, an idea came to me. A mighty flight of stairs topped and enclosed by a long callonade, flanked at both ends by stone abutments. Undoubtedly it was influenced by the Pergamum Altar'. 

The colonnade and most of the more prominent features were destroyed in two phases after the Second World War in Europe had ended. During the first phase, by the American Army of Occupation in 1945 and in the second, by the Bundeswehr in 1966/67.

Perimeter wall of the Zeppelin Field

Nazi eagle on repurposed transformer station

Virtually all Nazi iconography has been removed - either looted or intentionally destroyed. However, A Nazi eagle emblem can still be seen on the building that housed the transformer station which served power to the Rally Grounds. Rather incongruously, the building is now a Burger King fast food restaurant.

Of the monumental structures planned for Nuremberg, one other remains today - albeit partly completed. Unlike all of the others, the Congress Hall was not designed by Speer. The architect Ludwig Ruff conceived the design in 1933 and the project was one of Hitler's favourites. The building was never completed and what remains today looks much as it did when work stopped in the winter of 1942-43. The Hall was to be larger (by an almost 50% margin) than the Colosseum in Rome and would seat 40,000 spectators with a further 8,000 standing.

The Congress Hall - External

The Congress Hall - Internal

The scale is impressive and there is an excellent interpretation centre in part of the restored space. The roof, the second storey, the interior and the stage are all incomplete and - as can be seen above - parts of the structure are used for commercial purposes.

Given the importance of the city to the Nazi cause, it was entirely appropriate that the most prominent German war criminals should face justice there. The city had been repeatedly smashed by Allied bombing but remarkably, the Palace of Justice survived. It was here, in Courtroom 600, that the Nuremberg Trials (1945-49) took place. The Palace stopped hosting court hearings about twenty years ago but visitors are able to access Room 600 which is largely unchanged from when the trials took place.

Courtroom 600, Palace of Justice, Nuremberg

contemporary photograph

Visitors stand in what was the press gallery. During the trial, the defendants were seated in the enclosed seating area on the left. There is a door directly behind the dock which enabled prisoners to be brought up, via an elevator, directly from their cells. In his memoir, Speer recalls his first appearance.

'After a last inspection by Colonel Andrus, on November 19, 1945, we were led into the still empty courtroom, each of us escorted by a soldier, but without handcuffs. Seats were formally assigned. At the head were Goering, Hess and Ribbentrop. I was placed third from last on the second bench, in agreeable company: Seyss-Inquart on my right, von Neurath on my left. Streicher and Funk sat right in front of me.'

Speer, of course, received a custodial sentence only - despite the protestations of the Soviet judge. The persona and accompanying narrative of being a 'good Nazi' which he had assiduously worked on during the pre-trial period paid off - he escaped the noose. Nowadays, notwithstanding the contents of his memoir, Speer is seen for what he was - a war criminal of the highest order.

For my portfolio of images from Nuremberg click here.